Comet Neowise (2020)

This is my only image of Comet C/2020 Neowise taken with my trusty Canon T3i (600D) and 50mm lens.  I was most happy about seeing just seeing this with a naked eye.  I am not planning to take any other photos of this given there are so many incredible images of this taken already by people who specialize in this type of photography.  I read somewhere that Neowise is most imaged comet in history and I believe it.  A new mirror less full-frame camera with a some type of telephoto lens and a tripod would be best to image this but you can achieve decent results with any type of camera and lens.

Comet C/2020 Neowise
Location: St, Johns Cemetery, Monroe, CT
Date: 7-15-20
Camera: Canon T3i/600D modified
Lens: Canon 50mm f/1.8
Focal Length: 50mm
f/4.0
Mount: iOptron SkyGuider Pro on a Manfrotto Tripod
Filter: none
Autoguiding: none
Exposure: 1 x 25s
ISO: 800
Processing: Photoshop

https://kurtzeppetello.smugmug.com/
http://astroquest1.blogspot.com/
http://youtube.com/c/AstroQuest1

Fog on the Camera Window?

Sh2-155 - Cave Nebula
Home Monroe, CT
Date: 7-12-20
Camera: ZWO ASI1600MM-Pro
Telescope: Astro-Tech AT115EDT 115mm Refractor Telescope
Barlow: None
Focal Length: 805
f/7
Focal Reducer: AstroTech Field Flatterner/Focal Reducer
Mount: Orion Atlas Pro
Filter Wheel: ZWO EFW 8 x 1.25"
Filter: ZWO Ha
Focuser: ZWO EAF
Autoguiding: ASI120 Mini attached to an Agena 50mm Guide Scope/ZWO 60mm Guidescope
Exposure: Ha 1 x 240s
Gain: 139
Offset 21
Sensor Temp: -10 C

Outside Temp: 20 C

Processing: None

Other:

It was very humid and poor transparency.  Hazy clouds moved in as well.  Autoguiding was poor, the guidestar was lost several times.

Homemade Bracket for Camera and Guidescope

 

It became increasingly clear that in order image the Polaris region with my Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM that I would have to use an autoguider.  There are of course several different ways to go about this, however, I wanted to make another easily removable, modular, stand-alone setup so I decided to build a bracket out of a leftover piece of an aluminum plate used to build my main scope gadget holder (https://astroquest1.blogspot.com/2019/06/the-pegasus-astro-pocket-power-box-best.html) that secures may Pegasus Pocket Power box among other things.  There is room to switch out the camera at a later date if I choose too.  This bracket attaches to any dovetail type telescope mount but can also be attached directly to my telescope rings.

Parts:
1) 1 - Vello Camera Ring Holder
2) 1 - 8-in dovetail bar
3) 1 - 4 x 8 x 1/4-in aluminum plate
4) 2 - ZMAX 18-Gauge Galvanized Steel Angle
5) 1 - 50mm autoguider telescope with bracket
6) 1 - Canon T3i (600D)
7) 1 - Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM
8) various length 1/4-in #20 nuts and bolts

Construction Summary:
1) Cut aluminum plate to size, 4 x 8 inches (10.2 x 20.3) cm
2) Cut two additional aluminum pieces from plate for spacers, 1 x 4 inches (2.5 x 10.2 cm) - optional
3) Position camera* and guider for proper balance and mark drill holes
4) Drill holes with 1/4 inch (6.3 mm) metal drill bit into the aluminum plate and spacers
5) Cut Galvanized angles so they don not overlap (optional)
6) Check to ensure bolts line up

*NOTE: leave room for accessing the camera battery holder.
The Two small plates used for spacers were placed between the main plate and the dovetail bar.  The were needed because the Sirius mount screws hit the bottom of the plate without the spacers.  If I use the Atlas mount the spacers are not needed but no reason to remove them.

Test:
I did a preliminary test using the Ring Nebula region in Lyra.  I used this because there was not anything bigger in my viewing window plus I was mainly interested on how the stars looked anyway.  I was on this object for 30 minutes and with no drift and this is the most round the stars have ever looked using this lens so I think I am ready for some more interesting objects in the future.  The image is was made with 21 x 45 sec subframes and what 30 minutes of processing can do.

M57 - Ring Nebula Region, Lyra
Location: Home Monroe, CT
Date: 7-6-20
Camera: Canon T3i/600D modified
Lens: Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM
Focal Length: 200mm
RGB f/3.5
Mount: Orion Sirius
Autoguiding: QHY-5II attached to an Agena 50mm Guide Scope with Helical Focuser
Exposure: 21 x 45 sec
ISO: 800
Temp: 17 C
Processing: APT, BYEOS, PixInsight, Photoshop

https://kurtzeppetello.smugmug.com/
http://astroquest1.blogspot.com/
http://youtube.com/c/AstroQuest1

LDN 1235 - Shark Nebula (The Head)

So this the Shark Nebula a.k.a. Lynds Dark Nebula 1235 (LDN 1235) or at least the front portion of it.  It is composed of interstellar gas and dust and unlike some other objects, this one really does resemble a shark.  It must be a Great White as it is larger than my field of view.  It is huge at 15 light-years across and relatively close at 650 light-years away in Cepheus.  Also located within LDN 1235 are Van den Bergh149 & 150 (Vdb149 & 150) after Sidney Van Den Bergh who produced a catalog of bright reflection nebula with embedded stars in 1966.  Vdb150 is the blue reflection nebula located at the back of the shark's head while Vdb149 is located on the bottom.  Vdb149 was first talked about in 1957 while Vdb150 goes back to 1918 when Annie Jump Cannon and Edward Pickering noted it.

I really enjoy dark nebula and like to image them even though they are the hardest DSOs to capture in light polluted areas - no reason not to try.  I captured just under 10 hrs of data but had to reject a fair amount due to what I call 'fake clear skies' - poor transparency.  The night sky has not been clear since at my location so this will be my last DSO for a while. 

Although I enjoy dark nebulae they are tough to process and this was no different.  I find it difficult what to highlight and how much color to add without overdoing it while at the same time keeping the noise down.  I thought I was done three times and then decided on another adjustment to make.  I ended up merging two of my slightly different processed images so I got the best of both worlds. 

Date: 6-24-20, 6-25-20, 6-26-20, 6-27-20

https://kurtzeppetello.smugmug.com/
http://astroquest1.blogspot.com/
http://youtube.com/c/AstroQuest1

LDN 1235 - Shark Nebula
Home Monroe, CT
Date: 6-24-20, 6-25-20, 6-26-20, 6-27-20
Camera: ZWO ASI1600MM-Pro
Telescope: Astro-Tech AT115EDT 115mm Refractor Telescope
Barlow: None
Focal Length: 805
f/7
Focal Reducer: AstroTech Field Flatterner/Focal Reducer
Mount: Orion Atlas Pro
Filter Wheel: ZWO EFW 8 x 1.25"
Filter: ZWO L, R, G, B
Focuser: ZWO EAF
Autoguiding: ASI120 Mini attached to an Agena 50mm Guide Scope/ZWO 60mm Guidescope
Exposure: L 206 x 90s, R 75 x 90s, G 47 x 90s, B 70 x 90s (9.95 hrs)
Gain: 139
Offset 21
Temp: 18 C
Processing: APT, NINA, PixInsight, Photoshop.

https://kurtzeppetello.smugmug.com/
http://astroquest1.blogspot.com/
http://youtube.com/c/AstroQuest1

Solar Practice 2

So this flare was from Thursday July 2.  It was pretty cool to look at, so good I had to show Alex, my wife.  It pretty much looked like this in the PST.  This image OK but I saw lot of really detailed images of this on are Astrobin.  The video was captured with my old autoguider (QHY-5II) and the PST.  The ASI174 Kit was sent back to OPT so I can exchange it for different stuff.

I did not focus in on the surface but rather the flare itself so I just blacked the surface since there was no detail.  I used SharpCap for capturing, AutoStakkart for stacking the video, and Photoshop for processing.  I really don't know what I am doing just sort of winging it.  I will probably wait until I get the new stuff before doing any more solar imaging.

Solar Flare

Date: 7-3-20
Telescope: Coronado PST
Camera: QHY-5II
Mount: Orion Sirius
Barlow: None

Capture Software: Sharpcap
Frames: 500, best 50%
Processing: Autostakkert 2.6.8, Photoshop

https://kurtzeppetello.smugmug.com/
http://astroquest1.blogspot.com/
http://youtube.com/c/AstroQuest1

Solar Practice 1

I decided to do some solar imaging again.  I briefly did some years ago but did not stick with it.  This is my first solar image in over three years.  I consider it a success since it is the sun and it is better than I ever did before.

Date: 6-13-20
Telescope: Coronado PST
Camera: ZWO ASI174 MM (uncooled)
Mount: Orion Sirius
Barlow: Orion Shorty 2x
Capture Software: Sharpcap
Frames: 500, best 50%
Processing: Autostakkert 2.6.8, PixInsight, Photoshop

I am glad I processed this as I almost did not because I thought it was way out of focus.  The processing method was a combination of stuff I learned from Marty Wise (Wise Imaging) and Chuck Ayoub (Chuck's Astrophotography), thanks to both.  I only did very simple things while processing and certainly need more practice.  There was even a solar flare but I did not see it while I was capturing it.  I brought it into the surface image even though it is not great.

So I got this image but sent back the ZWO174 Kit (it came with a filter wheel and filters) as I was not totally happy with it for a couple of reasons:  1) Must use a Barlow for focus, 2) Larger Pixel size - less resolution.  I am exchanging it for an ASI178 which has a smaller pixel size - more resolution (but possibly more noise).  Another advantage is I won't need a barlow for focusing so it is a better fit for the PST and it is cheaper.  The next plan is turning my Orion ED80 that is collecting dust into a solar scope, I can use the savings from returning camera kit to get the bartender from Deep Space Nine!

Process 2020

This is a quick guide that I currently use to process my astrophotography images.  The is a lot of other stuff I do and I may deviate from this from time to time.  Processing is like baking, there is a general recipe but there is also a lot of a 'pinch here' a 'dash there' which means there is a lot of variation in my processing.  Also, I just started using StarNet, the star removal software, which could  be used prior to combining NB images or after.

This current process is modified from a process that Gary Imm from Imm Astrophotography uses.  In addition, the section on deconvolution was from Visibledark Astro Video.  StarNet was first introduced to me from Chuck Ayoub of Chuck's Astrophotography.  Lastly, I am using a new method for combining RGB stars into starless NB images developed by Trevor Jones from Astrobackyard. 


Modified from Gary Imm
All subs (in PixInsight):
1. Use Blink, along with HFR from step 1, to eliminate bad images
2. Use Batch Preprocessing, with Cosmetic Correction, to develop LRGB masters
3. Use Dynamic Crop to frame object (apply to all 4 masters)
4. Apply APE/DBE to correct for gradients as necessary on each master
RGB:
5. Use ChannelCombination to combine R/G/B subs to obtain RGB
6. Apply Background Neutralization and RGBWorkingSpace to RGB (sometimes)
7. Apply TGV to RGB (noise reduction) see TGV Detail
8. Apply MLT to RGB (noise reduction)
9. Stretch RGB using Histogram Transformation (HT) to obtain RGBS
Lum:
10. Copy Lum and apply HT to create Lum-L (stretched Lum) see Deconvolution Detail
11. Apply StarMask to Lum-L to create Star Mask
12. Apply PSF to Lum to create PSF image
13. Using StarMask and PSF, apply Deconvolution to Lum (sharpening)
14. Apply TGV to Lum (noise reduction) see TGV Detail
15. Apply MMT to Lum (noise reduction)
16. Stretch Lum (HT) to obtain Lums
17. Apply HDR to Lums (range compression)
LRGB:
18. Match RGBS Luminosity with Lums using LinearFit (I currently adjust by sight)
19. Use LRGB Combination to combine RGBS and Lums to create LRGBS
20. Apply ACDNR to LRGBS (noise reduction)
21. Apply SCNR to LRGBS
22. Save as LRGBS TIF file for final touches in Photoshop, Lightroom, PI
(noise reduction, clarity, contrast, saturation, overall brightness)


TGV - Detail
1. extract L from the linear unprocessed RGB to create RGB_L
2. Then stretch RGB_L, copy it
3. then apply CurvesTransformation with the RGB/K settings at
- 0, 0.2 and 1, 0.5 to create a low contrast mask.
4. Apply this mask to the RGB and invert it.
5. Then apply TGV with these settings
- Strength of 5, Edge Protection of 0.000008, and Smoothness of 2. Use 500 iterations.
6. Preview and play with Edge Protection a bit for the optimal setting for a given image.
7. You want to be able to see the noise reduced slightly but not too much
- I never change the Strength, Smoothness, or Iterations values.
8. Make sure you check Local Support and use the RGB_L as the Support Image.



From Visibledark Astro Video -
Deconvolution Detail (Luminosity or NB Channels)
3-things: 1) Decon Mask, 2) Local Deringing Support Mask - LDSM, 3) PSF Image
Decon Mask - clipped mask (black)
1. HST tool to make nonlinear - Decon Lum
2. Stretch and clip Decon Lum
3. Rename identifier to Lum_Decon_Mask
LDSM
4. Starmask of linear image - default settings - Rename LDSM
5. Scale increase
6. Truncation - 0.25
Point Spread Function Mask
7. Scripts
8. Render
9. PSF
Deconvolution
10. PSF select
11. Add Lum_Decon_Mask
12. Richard-Lucy algorithm, Iterations 50-80
13. Deringing
14. Local Support - Starmask/LDSM
15. Preview
16. Global Dark from 1.000 to 0.200